The short story is, we loved Porto more so than we did Lisbon. The city itself was simply beautiful, and the views along the Duoro River at sunset was spectacular.
Take a Walk Through the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal
This garden is a bit of a walk from the old town (and has a bit of an uphill climb in the end to get to the entrance), but the views are worth it. If you also want to take a photo with the big “Porto” sign, this is where it is. We did walk downhill to the River Duoro back into old town, but the walk was not as interesting.
Check out the Cedofeita Neighborhood
The main street of this neighborhood is on Rua do Cedofeita. The side streets of Rua do Breiner, Rua do Bombarda, and Rua do Rosário has a lot of small design shops and cafes. We first ended up at Early, which is a cafe/restaurant, and then we were told the same owners also has a concept store and a “townhouse” hotel called the Rosa et al Townhouse which is known for its brunch. Then at the Centro Comercial Miguel Bombarda, there was a little farmer’s market (Saturdays only) where we bought these awesome homemade almond cookies. The courtyard inside the shopping center is where the people are hanging out, including the Sabores & Açores restaurant, which is well-known.
Again, on Saturdays you will also find the Mercado Porto Belo, which is not far away.
The best part is you won’t find as many tourists here. I’d combine this with the walk through the gardens.
Azulejos
If you’re arriving by train, you’ll see them inside the São Bento station. There are also many churches in Porto which are adorned with more azulejos (tiles) that you’ll just run into. Take it in. When the light hits the azulejos in the afternoon, it’s time for some creative photography.
Walk Alongside Gaia for some Port
If you’re into Port, the winemakers are all here. At the far end of Gaia is Mercado Beira-Rio where you can get something to eat. We’re not wine drinkers, so we didn’t go port tasting, but I did have a 10 year-old Port wine at dinner. It was good.
Take in the Sunset
The key here is to be on the Gaia side looking towards Porto, and I think the best place is at the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar (Serra do Pilar Monastery). In October, we arrived at the monastery just before 7pm so we can take in the view, before sunset at around 7:30pm. If you go to the far end, you can also get the Dom Luis I Bridge in the foreground.
The day before we saw the sunset from the Miradouro da Vitória in Porto (at the Church of Nossa Senhora da Vitória) looking towards Gaia, and it was the wrong direction. Nevertheless the view itself was beautiful.
Tip: There are a few ways to get to the monastery, but the easiest way is to take the metro to “Jardim do Morro” station and walk up the hill to the monastery. You’ll thank yourself for saving yourself the energy to climb, and then appreciate the view. Alternatively, if you’re already on the Gaia side (and perhaps had some Port), you can take the cable car up the hill and save yourself a climb.
Buy a Shirt from Typographia
We loved their graphic shirts. They also have a shop in Lisbon, but everything is made in Porto. The cotton is sooooo soft.
Things to Avoid
As for things to avoid, I’d avoid Livaria Lello unless you’re a die-hard Harry Potter fan. I just don’t feel paying 5€ to enter a bookstore to take pictures while being shoulder-to-shoulder with other tourists is a fun experience. We completely skipped it, but did see long lines outside. Mind you it’s October, which is not high season.
What I Wish I had Time For
I really wanted to go to Matosinhos Sul for some seafood, but I didn’t have time. Also, since we didn’t have a car, I couldn’t go check out Passadiços do Paiva (Paiva Walkways), which would have been a wonderful day out in the countryside.
Practical Information
Public Transportation: Like Lisbon, Porto also has a reloadable card you should buy called the Andante. You can buy this at the metro stations. You will be charged 0,60€ for the card with the initial top-up. City center tickets are 1,20€ per ride.