Why Coimbra?
When I planned our trip, I struggled to find a third town to visit. I thought about day trips from Lisbon (Évora) or Porto (Braga, Guimarães), or somewhere in between like Aveiro, or Nazaré.
Then I ended up with Coimbra. Why?
There is something about that picturesque view from the river. The hills. The university, which is one of the oldest in the world in continuous operation. It’s definitely the oldest in Portugal. Because it’s so small, Coimbra can probably be explored in 24 hours.
We then “landed” in the middle of freshman initiation called praxe in Portuguese. Each college (e.g., Letters or Medicine) wore their own colors, and then freshmen dressed up like it’s Halloween. I believe it’s the upperclassmen were the ones dressed in more formal clothing – almost Harry Potter-like. By the time we climbed up to the University of Coimbra, most of the students were already gathered by the main quad. There were students chanting, and parents and friends were watching. It was quite an event.
So what’s good in Coimbra?
Visit the University
The university is definitely worthy of a visit; I’ve already talked about some of the reasons why. In addition, it’s also known for the Joanina Library, which was commissioned by King João V in 1717, and was completed between 1717 and 1728. The library is made up of three floors. The bottom floor was used as an academic prison for students who have committed disciplinary offenses. Next, the middle floor is a library. Finally, the top floor is divided into three rooms, each room has floor-to-ceiling oak shelves, with sides decorated with chinoiserie paintings. No photos were allowed inside (although there was a French tourist who was discreetly snapping photos, even though his camera was beeping the whole time).
Walk the Alleyways
The alleyways of Coimbra are narrow and not the easiest to walk on, as it’s all cobblestone, and sometimes may be slippery. Some of the alleyways have crochets that hang overhead and is beautiful in its own way.
Listen to some Coimbra Fado
We went to a Coimbra Fado concert, and it was definitely worth it. You’ll learn the history, and enjoy the performance by local artists who are dedicated to preserving the art form.
Check out the Art
We bought three pieces of art from a small shop called Ilustração ao Vento (Illustrations of the Wind). The artist, Márcia Santos, was a graduate of the University of Coimbra. As the name of her shop suggests, each piece of art has to do with the wind.
Practical Information
Getting in and out of Coimbra: Coimbra has two train stations, Coimbra-A (or just Coimbra) and Coimbra-B. All high-speed trains stop at Coimbra-A, and from there you will need to change trains and ride to Coimbra-B, which is in the city center.
Hotel tip: Coimbra is a hilly town, so if you don’t want to drag your bags up and down the hill, stay close to the train station. We stayed at Hotel Oslo, which is right next to Coimbra-B, and the hotel staff is amazing. The rooms were clean and comfortable. The best part about the hotel is the rooftop terrace with a view of the old town.